The Ball 2010

The bus with Special Olympics day-trippers leaves early with us and Kasim on board. We are heading for the village of Siby and it is a matter of who-knows-what-to-expect. We often turn up in a place and then find out what is planned for us. The mystery, as ever, is intriguing.

The Ball in Siby — too hot for football at 45 degrees in the shade

In Siby’s mayoral compound, drummers and hunters are gathered. At first the drumming is haphazard, but more and more people gather as the drums call folk together. The mayor, village chief and other dignataries arrive. The ceremony takes shape.

The team from Special Olympics Mali with some Siby locals

Phil is introduced to some athletes who have represented Special Olympics Mali. BandongoBu Sidede was a gold medallist in the javelin and won silver in the 800 metres at the Special Olympics Games in Shanghai in 2007. Aged 12, his mother had got him involved with SO Mali and his trainer Sedou looked after his development and accompanied him to the SO games.

Phil with BandongoBu Sidede (l) and Trezeguet (r)

Chairs and benches form a circle. Phil starts to dance. The drummers, all male, are joined by a female singer with a trance-inducing voice.

Hunters with The Ball

Mayoral dignitaries, looking proper, sit on chairs over to one side. The chief of the village and the elders gather on benches under the shade of the finest tree. We’re taking turns filming with the Sony camera from Africa 10. It’s hot, very hot and we’re sweltering getting shots of the scene.

Phil does his whirling dervish impression with a scarf

Phil dances some more and launches several times into spin, a flick of the head first, then dervish trance-style second — to a great reception. He’s invited to continue and a scarf is wrapped and tied around his waist. Gutter spinning and moonwalk. He feels particular affinity to the hunters and is drawn to their engaging smiles. It is they who lead the dances, a wisp of hair is handed to each dancer in turn and ceremoniously returned to a particular elder.

The hunters carry guns and dance with them conga style. Phil is invited to join in. Up he pops, is handed a gun and then off he goes.

A Siby hunter dancing with gun

Then it’s time for the ceremonial speeches. An hour passes. Andrew, still suffering from the cumulative effect of our gruelling itinerary over the last few days, falls asleep time and again. No offense is intended — and none is taken — as Andrew valiantly yet unsuccessfully attempts to fight off the waves of exhaustion.

The Mayor of Siby gives a very, very long speech

Andrew fights sleep as the Mayor speaks

Phil presents The Ball to a rep of Siby Village (m) and Alou Diarra dit Lopez from Special Olympics Mali (r)

All fingers point to The Ball

By now slightly delirious, well watered but wanting something to eat, we head off in a bus to an old meeting place in the crook on an impressive canyon nearby. We are offered rest under a tree while the others go up the hill. Phil asks how far. “One kilometer,” come back the reply. Special Olympics have carefully crafted their plans for us with the intention of looking after our health. But this looks too good to miss.

The Ball and the Special Olympics Mali ensemble at the high point of the hike

Dramane Traore from Special Olympics Mali, the organiser of the Siby visit, kisses The Ball

We can see why the empire of Mali began near here. Like the Grand Canyon, the water-shaped towering pillars and an extraordinary arch frame the plain below. Mostly scrub and brush in what seems to be an exceptionally dry earth. Baked by a dry heat throughout the day, the plain is full of lush green trees, many laden with golden tear drops of mangoes. As Phil scampers across the rocks — to the horror of the Special Olympics staff — he feels he is truly in paradise.

Written by The Ball on Saturday, March 20th, 2010